Run from the hills, run for your lives

There are currently 108 active volcanoes in Japan (ten percent of the world’s total). On average eruptions or abnormal phenomena are observed at 10 volcanoes a year in Japan. In Japan an active volcano is defined as “volcanoes which have erupted within 10,000 years or volcanoes with vigorous volcanic gas and water vapor releases.” In Hokkaido 19 volcanoes fit that description and there have been 16 large-scale eruptions in the last 350 years (3 were of an equal scale to the 1980 Mt Saint Helens eruption). Closest to home is the Niseko volcanic group, which includes Nisekoannupuri (yes, you are skiing on an active volcano), Mt Yotei and Usu-zan.

Usu-zan erupts

Although classed as active, the Niseko group and Mt Yotei are at the bottom of the activity scale. Usu-zan however is right at the top. Situated on the shores of Lake Toya 50km south of Hirafu, Usu-zan is one of Hokkaido’s well-known volcanoes and one of the most active in Japan. There have been four eruptions in the last 100 years alone with the most recent taking place in 2000.

I wouldn't park in this neighbourhood

The March 2000 eruption created 50 new craters, caused mudflows, destroyed a national road, several buildings and forced the evacuation of over 13,000 residents from the surrounding area. While most were able to return to their homes within two weeks, 3,000 people from the Toyako Onsen township had to wait for more than 2 months in evacuation shelters before they could return.

I hope they had insurance

Lake Toya is a popular stop on the domestic tourist trail. Highlights include onsen, a ropeway on Mount Usu and Showashinzan (a small lava dome that was created between 1944 and 1945). When Usu-zan erupted in 1977, visitor numbers to the area dropped by 60%. To revitalize tourism following the 1977 eruption the local community started a spring to autumn nightly fireworks display on the lake. This has been running since 1982 and has become a successful draw card to the area. Following the most recent eruption the local community decided to preserve the ruins and the area is now part of the Lake Toya and Usu Volcano Geopark.

Epi-center of the 2000 eruption

I saw the 2000 eruption on local TV. It was major news on all stations. Plenty of live action from helicopters flying over the exploding craters and lots of expert opinions on the size of the boulders being hurled skywards. The township was closed, covered in ash and the local business leaders being interviewed looked mightily depressed.

Showashinzan a popular tourist spot

The Lake Toya economy is heavily dependent on tourism and the eruption at the start of spring threatened the whole summer trade. In a desperate measure to declare the town safe again and generate business one of the major hotels offered a 5000jpy stay with buffet dinner and breakfast included. Lake Toya is one of my favourite places in Hokkaido so I jumped at the offer. With half the town closed and the mountain still fizzing I went down for the weekend to enjoy the onsen and buffet. The thing I remember the most about that weekend was finding a hard-hat and an evacuation map in my room. Errrr I thought this place was safe and I’m not quite sure how effective the hat is going to be at stopping those 3 tonne boulders I’d seen the experts talking about.

Mt Yotei from Usu-zan

Road block ahead

As high as a kite in Annupuri

If you are driving near the Annupuri ski resort around dawn or dusk during the summer months you may have noticed a strange yellow object in the sky.  It is the Niseko Balloon and recently I got the chance to check it out.

I headed out to the Niseko Annupuri Ski Resort at 4pm as I wanted to see the whole process of setting up a hot air balloon.

Step 1: Lay out the balloon

Step 2: Use a big fan to fill the balloon

Step 3: Stand inside the balloon

Step 4: Turn up the heat to max

Step 5: Keep heating until the balloon rises

Step 6: Yatta! & don't forget to tie down

Interesting but obvious fact: The temperature of the air at the top of the balloon is around 100 degrees Celsius.

The Niseko Balloon operates mornings and evenings from June 1st to October 12th weather permitting.  The balloon is tethered so you won’t accidentally fly away and will take you to a height of 30m providing great views of the surrounding area.

Packing up. All good things come to an end

A big thanks to the great Niseko Balloon staff (I owe you a beer)

Doing the Maccarina

The fastest way to the Rusutsu ski area from the Niseko resort area will take you through the small village of Makkari. The Makkari area gained some exposure recently when the wives of the G8 leaders visited the village and had lunch at the French influenced Restaurant Maccarina.

Makkari Yotei View

The view back towards Niseko

On the outskirts of the village is the Makkari Snowmobile Land. Set on a sprawling farm the snowmobile tours are definitely worth trying during the winter. I have done these several times and thoroughly recommend the experience. In summer however, there isn’t much here except a Mt Yotei viewing platform and a couple of stalls selling local produce.

Forest trail snowmobiling

Giving it the full throttle treatment

Heading back to Makkari the other main attraction is the Flower Center. The Flower center was recently converted into a Michi no eki (road station) It consists of a large glass house where flowers are grown and sold. There is also a center building selling local souvenirs and interestingly it also houses a mini museum dedicated to Makkari’s most famous offspring, Takashi Hosokawa.

Makkari Flower Center

Takashi Hosokawa in all his glory

Takashi Hosokawa is one of the most popular enka singers in Japan. Modern enka are Japanese ballads that typically deal with themes of love and loss, loneliness, hardships and death. A Japanese blues almost. On a historical note, enka were originally political speeches set to music spread by political activists and dissidents during the late 19^th century. Enka were sung as a legal loophole during a crackdown by the government on public speeches of dissent.

Takashi Hosokawa hit it big in 1975 and has won numerous awards for his crooning. Takashi has always promoted his hometown and as a token of their gratitude local Makkari residents built a bronze statue of Takashi. A collection of Takashi’s awards, costumes and memorabilia are on display in the main building.

The main drag Makkari

Kutchan Culture Shock

Often in winter I get asked by guests who stay in our Niseko apartments, “Is there anything to do in Kutchan? Or “Is there anything to do that isn’t skiing or snow related?”  Choices in winter are usually pretty limited so I set out to find something to do in case the ski lifts are closed due to bad weather.

While the primary reason to stay in Niseko during winter is for the skiing, people also travel for the cultural experience.   Using culture as a loose theme here I decided to visit the Kutchan Natural History Museum and also the Shu Ogawara Museum of Art to see what was on offer.

Shu Ogawara Museum of Art

Driving to the north east corner of Kutchan  you can conveniently find both museums at the opposite ends of a large carpark. The grounds are actually quite beautiful and there are several picnic chairs and tables making it an ideal location for a summer picnic.

Ideal picnic spot in the museum grounds

I headed to the Shu Ogawara Museum of Art first as the 500 yen entrance ticket includes free entry to the Natural History Museum.

The museum was constructed in the memory of locally born artist Shu Ogawara (1911-2002) Although Ogawara was suspended indefinitely from high school he studied hard under the guidance of a young fine arts teacher and was later able to enter the Western painting Department of Tokyo Art School in 1930.

At the museum there are two display halls and a small room where a 20 minute introductory movie showing scenes from around Kutchan, Tibet, China and India that became themes for Ogawara’s paintings.

The main exhibition room

The main display room features around 35 pieces dating from 1933 till 1990 of Ogawara’s work. Interestingly Ogawara abandoned surrealism in 1941 to document air battles for the Japanese Imperial Army.  These paintings however are not on display and remain locked in the national archives as the government is currently reluctant to exhibit wartime art.

The second display room is where different exhibitions are held. The museum also holds an outdoor sculpture exhibition every autumn.

Lucky to find a park, Kutchan Natural History Museum

At the other end of the carpark is the Kutchan  Natural History Museum. It boasts an odd mix of displays and stuffed animals and dead insects.  Unfortunately there are very few English explanations, but it is Japan after all.  There were a couple of interesting displays, the old ski equipment and Olympic gold medal from the 30s (which I am surprised hasn’t been stolen yet), the giant aerial photo of the surrounding district which you are allowed to walk over it and finally the remains of a zero fighter plane wing from Mt Annupuri.

Mt Annupuri wartime testing area

During the war, the peak of Mt Annupuri was used as a testing area for fighter plane wing design, or more specifically to test the affects of freezing on wing design. If you climb to the peak of Mt Annupuri you can still see the mounting base for the plane.

Inside the Kutchan Natural History Museum

Overall the Shu Ogawara Museum of Art is excellent and well worth the visit if you like or even semi like art. It’s a modern gallery set in beautiful grounds and would not be out of place in any major city. The staff was very friendly and even offered me some green tea.  I ‘m quite surprised  (even shocked) this place exists in Kutchan.   The Natural History Museum, well what can I say, at least it was free and there was also free tea for visitors so you can’t complain if it’s free.

Whoops, I almost flattened some Niseko luxury apartments

If you are looking to escape the summer rain or the Hirafu lifts are closed for the day in winter, visit the local museums and expose yourself to a bit of culture Kutchan style.

Water water everywhere

Ever wondered where all the snow in Niseko goes? A lot of it filters into the ground and later  resurfaces as spring water.  With an average annual snowfall around 13 meters, it’s no surprise that the quantity of spring water around the Niseko region is one of the largest in Japan.

Around the Niseko area there are many places to collect spring water.  Some places are very popular as many Japanese believe certain spring waters to contain beneficial properties.

Kyogoku spring water

Fukidashi spring water of Kyogoku (15mins outside of Hirafu) was designated by the Environment Ministry as one of the greatest 100 waters in Japan.  There is an Eki no Michi (road station)  at Kyogoku where you can sample the spring water.

Fortunately for those without a car, you don’t need to travel to Kyogoku to taste one of the top 100 waters.   The Hirafu Seicomart (local convenient store) stocks Kyogoku water.

Tofu samples Makkari

Makkari Village at the base of Mt Yotei, (halfway between Hirafu and Rusutsu ski resort) has a very popular natural mineral spring.

If you are heading to Rusutsu make sure you stop here as there is a very good tofu shop that uses the spring water to make fresh tofu. They also have a large selection of tofu products for free tasting.

With so many natural springs available you will never go thirsty in Niseko.

Spring water in St Moritz Niseko

Spring water in Annupuri

More spring water, this time Higashiyama

Mt Yotei spring water, Makkari

Milk Kobo Higashiyama

One of the more popular summer tour destinations in Niseko is Milk Kobo in Higashiyama,(on the road to Niseko Hilton).

Milk Kobo

Using fresh milk from their own farm, Milk Kobo’s goal is to provide “safe and tasty produce with a smile.”

Choux creme (cream puffs)

Milk Kobo is well known in Japan for its delicious ice-cream, yoghurt drink, puddings, cakes and my personal favourite, choux creme.

Horse riding at Milk Kobo

In the main building you can buy freshly made ice-cream, choux creme and cakes. There is a small cafe and a couple of shops selling glassware and local produce. In summer there are scenic fields of flowers and it’s a great spot to photograph Mt Youtei.

Summertime Milk Kobo

For those with a sweet tooth coming to ski Niseko in winter, you will be happy to know that Milk Kobo is open year round 10am-6pm.

Niseko View Plaza

The Niseko View Plaza, located on route 5 just outside of Niseko town is a Michi no Eki (Road Sation). There are around 900 of these road side rest areas in Japan.

Local governments often use Michi no Eki to represent and promote tourism.  Michi no Eki range from restrooms only to those with shops selling local specialties. Some Michi no Eki even have camping grounds, hot spring, parks and a wide range of services. Interestingly most do not have gas stations.

The Niseko View Plaza Michi no Eki offers some of the freshest and best value locally grown vegetables in the Niseko area. Much cheaper prices than you’ll find anywhere else in the area.

To get there from Hirafu village, drive along route 343 until you get to the T intersection past the flashing lights going to Hilton Niseko village. Turn left at the T Intersection, go over the big bridge, through Niseko town. Then you’ll see a service station called Hokuren on your right. The Niseko view plaza is right opposite this service station.

We visited the plaza last weekend and got a weeks worth of veggies, here are some photos of what was on offer.

Niseko asparagus, broccoli etc

Niseko fresh produce in June at View plaza

Mt Yotei from Niseko view plaza